It is very easy to tell the boats that have regular maintenance, versus the ones that don’t. Boats that don’t get maintenance regularly can cost a lot more money down the line. There are a lot of little things that can go wrong on a boat. One thing to keep in mind is to always listen to your engine when it is idling, and check everything to see if there is any excess water.
The hull
Of all the components of a boat, the hull is the most important and the least visible. What kind of maintenance the hull needs, depends on the hull material and where the boat is stored.
Some narrowboats, made of steel, need blacking every couple of years. The hull is cleaned, and a coat of blacking is put on to stop rust. Bitumen blacking is cheaper and lasts a couple of years, but an epoxy coating can last a lot longer between coats. While the hull is out, check the hull anodes and replace them when they are worn out.
Some boats that are kept at sea need a yearly antifouling to stop the hull from slowing down from weed and barnacles. For more info, read our older guide to antifouling and hull maintenance.
Fibreglass (GRP) hulls do not rust but they can blister, crack and lose their shine. Polish the gelcoat once a year and look for any chips or cracks, especially below the waterline. Small holes can be repaired at home, as our guide to repairing holes in a fibreglass boat explains.
The engine
The engine should be serviced at least yearly. Engines used extensively should be serviced in accordance to the manufactures recommendations. That generally means changing the oil and filters and on engines cooled by the water, checking the impeller in the water pump. A failed impeller will result in the engine overheating.
It takes five minutes to check the oil, the coolant and the drive belts. You should do this before every trip.
The stern gland
The stern gland is on narrowboats and other inland boats where the propeller shaft comes through the hull. The stern gland must be packed with grease to keep water out. Give the greaser a turn each day. A small amount of drip is normal, but if it gets worse the gland has to be repacked.
Batteries and electrics
Check the terminals on the batteries, clean them up and make sure they are held down. If a boat is going to be left for a long time, a solar panel or a shore power charger will stop the batteries from going flat. Check the wiring for signs of wear and corrosion. A lot of boat fires start there.
The bilge
Pump the bilge out regularly and check what comes out. A little rainwater is normal, but if oil or diesel is in the bilge there is a leak, and it can’t be pumped out. The bilge pump and its float switch should be tested every few months.
Everything else
- Check ropes and fenders for wear.
- Test gas fittings and alarms, and have the gas system checked by a qualified engineer.
- On a yacht, inspect the sails, rigging and deck fittings. See our guide to looking after a yacht.
- Keep the boat dry and aired inside to stop damp and mould.
A logbook is a good way to keep track of everything you do and when. When it comes time to sell, the logbook will help show everything that’s been done on the boat.