A bite alarm is the electronic bit at the end of the rod. The line either rolls past a sensor or runs over a roller and when a fish moves the line the bite alarm beeps and lights up. You don’t have to stare at the rod tip for hours and hours, especially if your sessions run over a day, or a weekend.
There are a lot of alarms on the market and prices range from a few pounds to hundreds of pounds for a set. The cheaper models and more expensive models do the same basic job. You pay more for extra features like how robust they are in bad weather conditions, how long the battery will last and how adjustable they are.
If you’re still not sure if you need alarms, we wrote a previous piece on why bite alarms changed carp fishing. This piece is on choosing one.
What should you look at first?
Waterproofing. A lot of cheaper models give up after one wet session. Look at how the battery compartment is sealed and how the alarm case is sealed. Is it fully sealed or just splash proof?
Sensitivity is one of the most important factors of an alarm. You want to set it low enough to where it goes off when there’s a ‘cautious’ bite, but high enough so it doesn’t go off every time the wind moves the line. Being able to adjust sensitivity on the bank is more important than any other feature.
Each of your alarms should have a different tone, especially if you’re using multiple rods. Being able to distinguish the tone and volume between each of your alarms without having to look is important. Also, the volume of your alarms needs to be loud enough for it to wake you up, but quiet enough to not bother the people around you.
The other features
- LED colours. Most alarms come in a choice of colours so each rod has its own. Some let you change the colour on the alarm itself.
- Drop-back indication. A good alarm gives a different tone when the line goes slack, which tells you the fish is swimming towards you rather than away.
- Night light. A separate light on the alarm that stays on for a few seconds after a bite, so you can see which rod it was when you come out of the bivvy.
- Snag ears. These are the two prongs either side of the roller that stop the rod sliding off when a fish takes line.
- Battery life. Some alarms run for a season on one battery and some need changing every few trips. Carry spares either way.
- Thread. Alarms screw onto bank sticks or a buzz bar, and nearly all use the same standard thread. Check before you mix makes.
Do you need a receiver?
If the alarms are going to be a few feet or more from where you sit, yes. Most alarms in the middle to higher range will have a wireless transmitter to send a signal to either a handset or a sounder box. Not all alarms work with all receivers, and most are made to work only with alarms of the same company. If you are thinking of purchasing a receiver at a later date, buy alarms that have a receiver available now. To learn more about bite alarm receivers, see our guide.
Alarms on their own are not enough
An alarm indicates the line has moved. A bite indicator attached behind an alarm indicates much more. The alarm and bite indicator are always used together. To learn how the rod and line communicate that a fish has taken the bait, read how a bite travels up the line.
Test every alarm in the garden prior to your first session. A dead alarm is something you want to find out about at home, not at the bank, especially at dusk.